MY LONG LOVE AFFAIR WITH TAILORING | TALES OF TWO COATS PART 2
Posted on 27 July 2016
Then the second patron arrived, sporting a beautiful coat that unlocked another treasure-chest of memories and desires in my brain. This coat was almost an opposite creature to the Max Mara column (see previous blog) related only by beauty.
Trapeze in shape in a brushed wool which blurred the large scale deep purple and midnight blue check. I suspect a Martin Grant or Dries Van Noten who both excel with this silhouette and pattern. It immediately reminded me that I want to work with large scale checks. The large scale checks were balanced with a large scale collar. She looked enviable cosy as well as chic. I completely understood why she declined to take it off.
That's the thing about a great coat, you don't want to take them off in a hurry because they are both commanding and comforting. For the purpose of creating this combination my cloth of choice for tailoring coats is a brushed and clipped English wool felt. My coats are rarely padded or lined which means they feel like a cardigan, fold up like a picnic blanket but completely commanding, like a great coat.
I recently lent a felt coat from the Star collection to a beautiful patron because I didn't want her to be ill clad whilst awaiting the arrival of her new season's Magnolia felt coat. When she arrived for her fitting wearing it she said,
"I have fallen in love with the divine stars on this coat, may I have a couple on the coat you are finishing for me? " I said, "Sure, with pleasure how many, how big, where would you like them?"
In the atelier now
SS17 Advance Order
* Star Week Day Trench Coat